Forms of European Cultural Influence on Javanese Culinary
- Astrid Wangsagirindra Pudjastawa
- Nov 16, 2020
- 4 min read
Updated: Nov 21, 2020
Identification of the influence of European culture on Javanese culinary can be done through the variety of foods consumed by the Bumiputera community before the influence of European culture strengthened it. Joseph Banks (1770) in his travel report stated that the food served by the community in Batavia was very simple. Boiled rice was a major part of the diet of the Batavian people, both rich and poor, rice was always served with a small amount of fish, buffalo, or poultry, and sometimes served with the dried fish and shrimp known to the Chinese. Each food that is processed is inseparable from a large number of red chilies and seasonings. They also know various kinds of cakes made from rice flour. By their standards, the food he consumed was abundant. Islamic teachings prohibit these people from drinking alcoholic beverages.
The eating habits carried out by people in Java are different from the habits practiced by European people (the Netherlands). John Barrow (1792) in his report tells of a banquet held by the Dutch during a stopover in Batavia before continuing his journey to China. At a banquet, the Dutch in Batavia used to serve wine and gin, cordials (sweet wine), cakes, and sweets. This dish is always served before the meal begins. When the meal begins, the food served includes boiled or steamed fish, poultry cooked in curry along with rice noodles, turkey and capon chicken (capon), various meats (boiled, grilled, and cooked in broth), soup, pudding, and various kinds of cakes. dry. A slave stands behind a guest chair pouring Dutch or Danish wine, gin, liquor, and beer. Another custom that the Dutch practice at dinner parties is to ask themselves to take a nap before continuing with a larger meal.
In the 20th century, the culinary culture of the Dutch Indies community was very diverse. The racial grouping of the population at that time had an impact on the diet and habits of the Dutch Indies. Europeans deliberately create luxurious lifestyles to show their social status, including their eating culture. The specialty of their food can be seen from the number of dishes and aspects of the presentation that seem like a miniature colonial government. The arrival of European women, whose numbers increased around the 1900s, brought about a new change in the eating culture in the Indies with the awakening of the awareness of 'Western life'.
Emphasis on an exclusive dining culture with a variety of dishes at one dining table is commonly called rijsttafel by European families, especially the Dutch. The term rijsttafel was first used by the Dutch to denote the hereditary habit of eating rice which eventually became their own culture within the scope of Dutch life. Rijst itself means rice or rice, while Tafel, apart from the meaning table, also means decoration for cooking. The term rijsttafel came into use in Dutch families around the 1870s.
At first, the presentation of rijsttafel always involved many waiters circulating various types of dishes. Some typical Dutch menus that are suitable to be served in a rijsttafel dish include various vegetable soups, beef tongue, potato croquette, boiled asparagus, lobster with mayonnaise, salad, pudding, fruit, bread, various processed mushrooms, pickles, beef, poultry, chicken, potatoes, biscuits with cheese, red wine, coffee, tea and iced cherries.
The rijsttafel menu that can be served for vegetarians includes vegetable soup, potatoes with butter sauce, white beans with sour egg sauce, lettuce, cornstarch pudding with berry or tamarillo sauce, salad with french fries, eggs with mushrooms and lemon, tomato soup, peanuts. peas with mashed potatoes, macaroni with raisins, spinach with potatoes and cocoa butter, macaroni and cheese, potato soup, chocolate pudding with vanilla sauce, cabbage and potatoes boiled together with milk and butter, cornstarch pudding with pineapple sauce, scrambled eggs with tomatoes, salad (tomatoes, radishes, and eggs), macaroni soup, cakes, and fruits. Meanwhile, Djoko Soekiman states that the dishes commonly served in rijsttafel include soup rice, fried rice, gado-gado, rames rice, and spring rolls.
Popular menus favored by the Dutch East Indies in the 1900s included zwartzuur, hotspot, ham with soup, bread, tart, pudding, agar-agar (goedir / gudir), freekedelen (cake), smoor (stew), rolled, soep (soup), biefstuk, resoulles, various ice drinks (es puter), egg noodles, pilus, soy sauce grilled chicken, fried prawns, coffee milk, botok prawns, crab, chili sauce, sayur lodeh Semarang, rice kebuli, sayur menir, sayur lodeh Surabaya, pindang soy sauce, besengek, soy sauce pepper chicken, goat curry, pudding, omelet, chicken satay, meat satay, mutton satay, serundeng, and others.
The influence of European culture, in this case, is also seen in the presentation of certain foods such as rice kebuli, dawet, and sayur menir which were originally only found in a series of selametan ceremonies. This shows a shift in the function of these foods. The food served in Indonesian submarine ceremonies has a certain meaning, so it can only be found at certain times. However, this situation is different from what happened in the Dutch East Indies in the 1900s, where the functional values of food were no longer seen only based on customary and religious values but were also more commercial in nature.
Another habit of the Dutch East Indies, especially the Javanese who was influenced by Europeans, is the habit of drinking ice water. Lombard states that the habit of drinking cold drinks began to develop in the Dutch East Indies since the end of the 19th century when the method of making ammonia invented by Europeans was brought to Java in 1880. and experienced great success. In just ten years, ice factories proliferated in the major cities of the Dutch East Indies.
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